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Tourists flock to the Cabot Trail, but climate change is making it more costly to welcome them

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Nova Scotia

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Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail is a destination for tens of thousands of visitors every year, but major weather events exacerbated by climate change have significantly damaged popular vacation spots, driving up the cost of doing business and requiring tourism operators to plan ahead for worst-case scenarios.

Vacation hot spots have contended with heat waves, floods and post-tropical storms in recent years

Brittany Wentzell · CBC News

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An aerial view of the damage done to Glenghorm Beach Resort. Debris is scattered around four cottages with an unsettled ocean nearby.

The aftermath of post-tropical storm Fiona on Glenghorm Beach Resort in Ingonish, Cape Breton. Fiona made landfall in Nova Scotia on Sept. 24, 2022, and remains among the costliest weather events to hit Atlantic Canada. (Glenghorm Beach Resort)

With its stunning ocean views, Cape Breton’s Cabot Trail is a destination for tens of thousands of visitors every year. 

But in recent years, major weather events exacerbated by climate change have significantly damaged popular vacation spots, driving up the cost of doing business and requiring tourism operators to plan ahead for worst-case scenarios.

Kathy Graham-MacKinnon, manager of the Glenghorm Beach Resort on the Cabot Trail, has been working in tourism in northern Cape Breton for more than 20 years. She said it’s clear the climate is changing. 

“We get much hotter summers and we get more storms. We get heavier rain — rain that I’ve never seen that heavy here at all — we get a lot of wind with the storms,” said Graham-MacKinnon. 

The Ingonish resort has had to invest in heat pumps to keep guests cool because other air conditioners can’t keep up during heat waves. Last summer, heavy rains led to flooding in the resort’s pub on multiple occasions.

Even three years after post-tropical storm Fiona made landfall in Nova Scotia, Graham-MacKinnon said the resort is still picking up the pieces.

An aerial photo Glenghorm Beach Resort that shows damage to two cabins, an out building, playground, and a seawall.

Glenghorm Beach Resort lost two cabins, a playground, an outbuilding, part of its seawall and more. (Glenghorm Beach Resort)

Fuelled in part by warmer-than-usual ocean temperatures, Fiona’s punishing winds and storm surge took out the resort’s seawall, two cottages and multiple outbuildings, but insurance only paid out around $89,000. With loss of income factored in, Fiona cost the resort around $500,000.

“Insurance didn’t cover what we hoped it would cover and government funding has been unfortunately nonexistent,” said Graham-MacKinnon. “We got a minimal amount that would not even replace one small cottage.

“As far as the infrastructure goes, they don’t cover outbuildings, they don’t cover swing sets, they don’t cover gazebos or … the wall or the stairs down to the beach and that all adds up. So you’re constantly trying to play catch-up.”

Graham-MacKinnon said the resort’s owner pursued $2,500 in assistance from the province, but that has been delayed by complications with insurance.

A spokesperson for the province’s Department of Emergency Management couldn’t speak to Glenghorm’s specific case. However, they said 515 small businesses have received grants and just a handful remain unresolved.

A road is washed out with muddy water

A ditch overflows onto the road in the Cape Breton Highlands after significant flooding in November 2021. (Sarah Barrington)

The Cabot Trail is no stranger to damaging weather.  

Parts of the trail running through Cape Breton Highlands National Park were swept away by historic flooding in 2021. The water not only damaged the road and several trails in the park, but also washed away a recently reconstructed and redesigned retaining wall. The park suffered more damage when Fiona tore through on Sept. 24, 2022.

In the immediate aftermath of that storm, the park’s field unit worked to stabilize and rebuild damaged bridges, culverts, roads, trails and buildings. 

Duggan Kennedy, the unit’s project manager, said the team also looked ahead to future storms and how best to protect the park’s assets.

“Some of that involved design and construction of buildings and roads and trails and bridges that were in need of repair or that needed mitigation for climate change in the future,” he said.

Two people sit on a rock overlooking a lush green valley and the ocean in Cape Breton Highlands National Park.

Hikers take in the view from the top of Franey Trail in the Cape Breton Highlands National Park. (Brittany Wentzell/CBC)

In June 2023, the federal government announced $43 million in funding for the Cape Breton field unit, which includes projects and repairs at Parks Canada sites across the island. 

Some of that will go to upgrading campgrounds and making them more resilient. For example, canvas-topped cabins for rent at Ingonish Beach will eventually be swapped out with actual cabins after some of the structures were damaged during storms.

In Ingonish, the Glenghorm Beach Resort has had to rebuild farther from the water in order to protect its infrastructure from storm surges.

A damaged building at Glenghorm Beach Resort surrounded by debris with the ocean in the background.

A damaged building at Glenghorm Beach Resort in Ingonish, along the Cabot Trail. (Glenghorm Beach Resort)

A barrier, however, is out of the question, said Graham-MacKinnon. Anything large enough to keep out a storm surge would be prohibitively expensive and block the view that visitors come for.

Graham-MacKinnon said more needs to be done to support small businesses being impacted by climate change.

“You always get the politicians on television saying, ‘We’re there with you, we’re going to help you, going to help you rebuild.’ But nothing, nothing happens,” she said.

“Everybody’s just passing the buck.”

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

Brittany is originally from Liverpool, N.S., but now calls Cape Breton home. As a reporter for Cape Breton’s Information Morning, Brittany breaks down the issues of the day and documents the stories of the island for early morning listeners. What’s going on in your community? Email brittany.wentzell@cbc.ca

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